Threaded #26: The 12 tools to start with  - Escape Collective

Oct 25, 2024

We’re 26 editions into Threaded and I’m only now writing an article that perhaps should have been the first. My bad!

In this edition, you’ll find a list of what I consider to be the must-have tools for anyone seeking to do the simplest of adjustments and maintenance on their own bikes. These tools also serve as a critical base for building a larger and more capable toolset for more advanced repairs. So whether you already own a bunch of tools or are starting from scratch, this is a list to check against.

This isn’t an exhaustive list, and your specific requirements will vary based on the bikes you own or work on. Expect a follow-up (or two) in future with another round of tools to add in an approximate order of importance. Additionally, you’ll find some general advice on buying tools and things to consider at the end of this article.

As is usual for Threaded, this isn’t just a list of the type of tools to consider but rather my recommendations for the tools I’ve found to be best and/or offer the most value within each category. As things change slowly in the tool world, the recommendations are products that will truly last and are unlikely to end up in landfill. I’ve provided links to previous articles where my reasoning for these recommendations is explained in full detail.

The Threaded series is typically now behind a paywall and exclusive to members of Escape Collective. Enjoy this free and introductory edition.

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The biggest upgrade you can do to a modern bicycle is dial in your tyre pressures to suit your body weight, surfaces, and tyres. With tyre volumes increasing (where sensitivity to pressure increases), achieving new levels of repeatable precision has never been more important. And yet, I still see way too many people inflating tyres by feel, the maximum number marked on the sidewall, or trusting the gauge sitting at the base of a 10-year-old rusty floor pump.

I believe the first tool to start with is a gauge you can trust. It may belong to your pump or be a standalone item. Either way, you want something you can take on and off the valve easily without causing significant air loss. And you want it to be easy to read at your desired pressure range (something many analog gauges on floor pumps don’t do). I quite like digital gauges for the ability to cover a wide range of pressures while offering an easy-to-read screen and rounding to the nearest PSI (some are even more accurate).

What I use: Fumpa digital inflator – it doubles as an inflator and trust-worthy gauge (US$149).What I suggest on a budget: Topeak Smart Gauge D2 (US$48, can be found for far less).

All too often, I see people damaging the fasteners on their bikes by using low-quality and/or worn tools. A set of hex keys is so fundamental to working on bicycles that it’s a no-brainer to get yourself something that fits correctly and lasts longer.

The humble and classic L-shape hex key will fit just about every bolt on every bike and so it’s the one to start with before considering other shapes and styles of hex wrench. A nine-piece metric set spanning 1.5-10 mm is what you want. A set with a long handle length will make undoing tight things easier, while a ball-end will gain you access in tricky situations.

My suggestions below are based on fastener fitment and absolute compatibility without interference issues (something the plastic sheaths used on the popular Wera Rainbow keys – pictured in the lead photo – can suffer from). Durability is also important; these suggestions should last a home user a lifetime.

What I use: PB Swiss PB 212.LH-10 RB (approx US$75).What I suggest on a budget: Bondhus BriteGuard Extra-Long Balldriver #17099 (approx US$20), Wera 073391 950/9 (approx US$42), or Wiha 66980 (approx US$45).

Removing and replacing tyres is a task that any keen rider should at least know how to do. While some tyre and wheel combinations allow you to use only your hands, many still require the assistance of a tyre lever (or two).

I have a literal shoe box full of various tyre levers and related tools (a topic for a future Threaded, I promise), but I’m forever returning to the old faithful Pedro’s tyre lever. This unassuming plastic tyre lever costs just a few dollars, is impressively strong, non-marring, and just has all the right angles. It is also still my favourite tool for pressing in disc brake pistons, but that’s a story for another day.

What I use: Pedro’s Tire Levers (US$5.5 for a pair).What I suggest on a budget: Pedro’s Tire Levers (US$5.5 for a pair).

The latest bicycles with high-end components only rarely call for a set of screwdrivers, but if you’ve got anything with age or on a budget, then you’ll need at least a Phillips #2. Meanwhile, a few different sizes of flat-blade screwdrivers are handy for occasional screws (such as Shimano disc brake pad bolts), cleaning gunky jockey wheels, or some cheeky prying.

The topic of screwdrivers is one I covered as a standalone edition of Threaded. The main takeaway is that modern and high-end screwdrivers made to current international standards simply fit better and are less likely to cam-out (strip) under torque. A nice screwdriver isn’t expensive and your bike will thank you for it.

What I use: PB Swiss Swissgrip (my favourite due to the handle, approx US$7 for one).What I suggest on a budget: Vessel Megadora 900, Wera, or Felo.

Torx is an alternative tool fitment to hex and aims to provide increased torque capacity for an equal-sized fastener head. It’s now commonly found on modern bicycles when fasteners are made with softer materials and/or shallow depth.

Unfortunately for Torx, it has a bad reputation as the vast majority of tools used are, quite simply, shit. Using a poor-fitting tool can quickly lead to a rounded-out bolt, and removing one of those is going to be more costly than what you would have spent on a nice tool to avoid such drama in the first place! Torx is another topic I’ve covered previously, and like hex keys, it’s not a place to cut corners to save a few dollars.

For me, the European fastener-specialist tool brands do Torx the best and are well worth spending more for. Most casual users will likely only ever use T10, T25, and T30 sizes, although other sizes do appear in certain brands of components and bikes.

What I use: A mix of PB Swiss (cross-handle and bits) and Wera (bits).What I suggest on a budget: Wera (not a budget option but it’s not a place to go cheap). A bit-ratchet and bits can be an economical entry point.

The chain is arguably the hardest-working component on a bicycle. It is also the only mechanical moving component that sits near the ground and is not sealed from the elements. Wear is inevitable, but letting it go too far will cause irreversible damage to the cogs the chain runs on, and things can quickly get expensive!

The answer is to regularly monitor chain wear and replace your chain accordingly. A recent edition of Threaded covered the topic of chain wear, with the key takeaways being that chain wear tools are often misused or even incompatible with some newer chains. Consult that article if you’ve got an old chain wear tool and are unsure whether it’s still OK.

Keeping your chain clean and lubricated with a great chain lube is the best way to mitigate chain wear. Here’s an article covering chain cleaning and some entry-level tools that is well worth reading if you’re starting your maintenance journey.

What I use: A mix of the KMC Digital (US$125) and Abbey Bike Tools LL Chain Gauge (US$45).What I suggest on a budget: Park Tool CC-4.2 (US$18).

Being able to check and adjust things like saddle height, reach to the bars, or even handlebar width are all fundamental to being comfortable on a bike for long distances. While there are more specialist (and accurate) tools for these tasks, it’s hard to beat the portability and cost of the humble tape measure.

For bicycles, I prefer smaller and lighter tape measures (3 metres or under) that won’t damage a bike in the unfortunate event you drop it. Find one with a clear metric scale or freedom units if that’s more your style. While it may sound crazy, it’s also a good idea to cross-reference your tape measure against a ruler to ensure accuracy (a lot of variability can occur at the starting tang/hook, especially in cheaper tapes).

What I use: Starrett Exact TX12-12ME (approx US$9).What I suggest on a budget: A small-sized Stanley is tough to beat, or whatever you already own.

Perhaps it’s just my poor eyesight, but I don’t know how I ever fixed bikes without a flashlight or inspection torch handy. A good small torch is indispensable for spotting a Torx from a Hex, reading tiny markings on bearings, spotting fitment gaps, seeing inside a frame for routing a cable, locating where a disc rotor is rubbing, or even searching for frame cracks.

Almost everyone now has a semi-decent torch on their phone, which works. I prefer the smaller profile and easier holding of a dedicated inspection torch. I particularly like pen-style inspection torches that are slim enough to fit into frames and other tight spots.

What I use: Coast A9R (one of the slimmest inspection torches available, US$40).What I suggest on a budget: Your phone (free, hopefully).

Sometimes you just need a sharp object that can take an eye out. A small pick is one of those unexpected tools that I reach for almost every time I’m working on a bike, whether it’s for opening the end of some freshly cut cable housing, picking glass out of road tyres, cleaning gunk off of jockey wheels (a small flat blade screwdriver is even better for this task), getting a frayed cable out of a shifter, or lifting a bearing seal – this thing is often just the perfect assistant.

My most-used pick has a straight blade. Once again, PB Swiss makes an appearance simply because something special in their steel and heat treatment makes for an edge that’s far more durable than anything else I’ve used.

Alternatively you can make your own poker/pick tool. An old spoke sharpened to a point works well, for example.

What I use: PB Swiss (approx US$8 for one).What I suggest on a budget: Sharpened spoke (free with an old spoke and a means to sharpen it).

If you’ve got a mountain bike with common air-sprung suspension, then you should own a shock pump. Like dialling in those tyre pressures, getting your suspension setup correctly is fundamental to an efficient, smooth, and controlled ride.

Shock pumps are relatively simple things that thread onto a Schrader valve and prioritise high pressure (300 psi or more) over volume. Unfortunately for the tool geeks, there isn’t much to separate one model from the next (in fact, most are identical). Once again I prefer pumps with a digital gauge for ease of seeing a specific number.

What I use: A generic digital pump sold by Fox/RockShox/Cane-Creek/RacingBros/etc. They’re just fine. What I suggest on a budget: A basic generic analog pump. Just use the same pump each time in case of gauge inaccuracy.

I only really use scissors on bicycles for finishing bartape on dropbar bikes or cutting up tapes and rags, but still, they’re a handy tool to have around.

To finish bartape, I recommend scissors with a long blade (250 mm is great) that can cut a smooth edge in one snip. There are countless scissors on the market that span a staggering array of prices. I’ve tried and tested at least a couple of dozen, and I still won’t pretend to know which is the absolute best or best value. Instead, I recommend something that’s intended for dressmaking or similar work with fabrics; find one that offers a comfortable handle for you, and that fits your budget.

What I use: Silky Nevanon (for tapes, approx US$50) and Crescent Wiss CW10TM 250mm (for chomping through rags, approx US$25).What I suggest on a budget: Fabric scissors from a craft store. Too much regional variance in this one to pick, sorry!

The days of cranking down bolts until they don’t move are long gone, and instead, the bike industry is filled to the brim with products that fly close to the edge of practicality. All these lightweight aluminium and carbon fibre parts are great, but they commonly demand bolts to be tightened with care and that’s where the torque wrench comes in.

If you can only have one torque tool, I suggest owning something that spans an approximate range of 2-8 Nm, or better yet, 2-16 Nm. This range will cover some of the most safety-critical fasteners found on modern bicycles. I previously covered a few budget torque wrenches, and I’ll soon tackle consumer-level portable torque tools.

If the budget allows (or you have a narrow focus on what you’re willing to work on), I’m a big proponent of owning a pre-set torque wrench in the common 5 Nm torque. This only costs about US$15-18 and gives you a simple always-ready tool for commonly repeated tasks. The ease and speed of such a tool means you’re more likely to use a torque wrench where it’s likely most critical.

What I use: Pedro’s Demi Torque II (US$220, picked for its rapid scale adjustment, although it’s hardly the only 1/4″ torque wrench I use) and Pedro’s Fixed Torque Driver (US$45).What I suggest on a budget: Clicker-type wrench such as the tested ThinkRider NL-15 Pro (approx US$28 on AliExpress) beam-type wrench such as the Neiko 1/4 (approx US$30). For preset, the PrestaCycle Mini (US$18) is a safe bet.

Selecting tools for a tool kit can be tricky business and often what’s best or what you need will depend on the type of bikes you ride and your level of mechanical competence. Similarly, those who own a single bike are likely to need far fewer tools than someone who rides multiples or has a family on bikes.

Almost every cycling tool company offers complete tool kits designed to handle many common tasks. Some of these kits are great, and a few offer a good level of value for what’s included, but my general advice has only ever been to piece together your own kit. By starting from scratch you can be sure you’re only buying exactly what you need, and with lists like this, that you’re buying tools that you’ll only need to purchase once.

Some cycling-specific tool brands, such as Park Tool, offer just about everything you need to open a bicycle workshop. However, when shopping for general tools such as hex keys, Torx, pliers, spanners, and screwdrivers, I strongly recommend looking beyond the cycling brands and rather seeking out automotive and big industry tool manufacturers. Not only do some of these bigger brands specialise in such tools, they also have vastly greater economies of scale to hit competitive pricing. Local hardware stores are one place to find such tools, although most of what’s mentioned in this article is easier to find through specialist tool-sellers online (no affiliate links here, so drop those product names/numbers into a search engine).

Obviously, cycling tool brands are the best place to purchase cycling-specific items. Examples from this article include tyre levers, chair-wear tools, and shock pumps. Expect another list covering a bunch more specialist tools in the near future. Bicycle shops or online bike shops are the best places to purchase cycling-specific tooling.

In building a toolkit, you’ll need a way to store everything. This is a big topic I’ll return to with options including hanging on a wall, in a box, in a tool roll, in a bucket, or just spread out in chaos on a bench. For now, my simple tip is to assume that you’ll always add tools to your collection and to account for some growth in your storage needs.Alongside building up a tool kit it’s worth considering the other foundational pieces that can often be critical for proper bicycle maintenance and repair. These include a workstand to hold the bike, a workbench (or similar flat surface), and a bench vise (commonly used in more intermediate to advanced repairs).

There’s plenty more in the oven for Threaded. Before the end of this year you should expect a follow-up list to this article, another session of New Tools Day, and a long-awaited shootout of pocket-sized torque wrench tools.

Until then, happy wrenching!

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