Threaded #25: An all-or-nothing relationship with ratchets  - Escape Collective

Oct 15, 2024

Welcome back to Threaded!

While a little odd, it’s not unusual for me to think deeply about the tools I naturally reach for and why. While I’ve previously written about my need and preferences for multiple types of hex keys, it feels like I now use ratchets for 80% of fastening – at least in sizes of 4 mm hex and up.

Through this, I’ve come to strongly believe that, at least for me, it’s an all-or-nothing tool selection. A bad ratchet will feel clunky to use, be inefficient, and distract from the task one should be focussed on. Meanwhile, a great ratchet – or ratchets, ideally set up with dedicated bits to avoid swapping – can be more ergonomic, much faster, and perhaps even help to better preserve bolt heads.

Such speed and ergonomic benefits make ratchets a common sight in the most-used drawers of automotive and motorcycle mechanics. And while not the same, I find it strange that ratchets are relatively rare in the world of bicycle mechanics.

In this edition of Threaded, I’ll explain the basics of ratchets, the features I seek, and the ratchets I’ve come to love.

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Not unlike the freehub in your rear hub, a ratchet drives in one direction and coasts in the other. While your hub is locked to going one direction, a hand ratchet should be easily switchable in direction, meaning you quickly loosen or tighten a fastener without having to remove and reset the tool to overcome an obstruction. Such obstructions are common in bicycle mechanics, whether from a simple bottle cage, seatpost bolt, or stem.

As with most things, there’s a whole world of ratchet geekery. Beyond the obvious size and handle differences, there are different drive mechanisms, ways that ratchets can spin, pivot, flex or turn to overcome obstacles, and various forms of specialist ratchets for specialist applications. Don’t worry, I won’t take you down that rabbit hole today, but allow me to define some basics.

Drive size is a good starting point in talking about ratchets. Broadly speaking, the size of a fastener increases with the required torque, while the drive size of a ratchet and its sockets follow suit. When working on bicycles, you’ll likely encounter ratchets and associated sockets with three distinct drive sizes: 1/4″ (6.35 mm), 3/8″ (9.5 mm), and 1/2″ (12.7 mm). The American tool company Snap-On recommends torque limits of 38 Nm, 108 Nm, and 447 Nm for its 1/4, 3/8″ and 1/2″ drive sizes, respectively.

The bigger the drive size, typically, the longer the tool’s handle gets to provide easier leverage in producing torque. Meanwhile, smaller drive sizes largely exist to create more compact tools that provide increased clearance in tight spots – a common problem with smaller fasteners on modern bicycles.

Before going further, it’s worth noting that if you own a torque wrench, you likely already own a tool with a ratchet head similar to those covered in this article. Except for a rare few tools on the market, it’s typically advised to only use a torque wrench for careful assembly work. Undoing tight bolts with a torque wrench (where torque can be above the tool’s range) can damage the tool’s calibration and/or function.

Ok, let’s talk about those compact ratchets.

The small fasteners commonly found in bicycles mean that ratchets with a 1/4″ drive size are commonly seen and are the practical choice for many repeated tasks. Specifically speaking of bicycles, this drive size is most applicable at or below M6 thread sizes, or put another way, fasteners that require tool sizes of no larger than 6 mm hex and T30.

This 1/4″ size trips up many users as it’s commonly-and-confusingly used to describe both hex-style bit ratchets (aka 1/4″ bit ratchet or “Female Drive”) and small square-drive ratchets (aka, “Male Drive” in some industries).

Many bit-based cycling tools, whether ratcheting or not, use the common 1/4″ hex bit standard – something that you likely own already in some form. Generally speaking, bit-drive ratchets are smaller and vastly more compact in the head size. They’re great for getting into tight spots, but the downsides are that they’re typically less comfortable in hand, can carry higher friction in the mechanism (backdrag, explained shortly), and don’t give much holding area if quickly winding threads via the socket/bit.

By contrast, most 1/4″ square drive ratchets tend to be bigger in the ratchet mechanism head (which can be used to reduce friction while retaining strength), offer larger handles, and are designed to be combined with a small set of sockets.

It’s rare to need more than 15 Nm in a drivesize applicable to 1/4″, and given this, leverage of the tool isn’t hugely important. Still, a longer handle can help move your hand away from hitting an obstacle, be more comfortable in use, and be helpful on bolts that have become corroded or were previously overtightened.

Once again, the similarities to a bicycle hub appear when talking about ratchet tooth count. Tooth count refers to the angle of engagement between ratcheting. Low tooth count ratchets can be inefficient in moving bolts where the swing angle of the tool is limited. Meanwhile higher tooth count ratchets are beneficial when talking about smaller fasteners and the tight spots they’re often found in. These days there’s little downside in picking a higher tooth count ratchet.

My biggest pain point in using a ratchet with these smaller <M6 fasteners is that you often have less friction in the thread than that of the ratchet mechanism. Put another way, the ratchet works perfectly in its drive direction, but attempting to freewheel the opposite direction can often turn the fastener with it (and in the unwanted direction). This is where the importance of a ratchet with a low backdrag comes in, basically meaning it offers low friction ratcheting that is less likely to turn the fastener in an unwanted direction.

Unfortunately for those on a budget, many cheaper ratchets (and some expensive ones) suffer from higher backdrag, and it’s not uncommon to see a mechanic using two hands to operate the tool – one to drive the ratchet and the other to lightly hold the socket when ratcheting. The usual tiny size of 1/4″ bit-style ratchets can be fiddly in this sense. Meanwhile, the larger 1/4″ square-drive ratchets can not only feature a mechanism that is less draggy but typically offer more holding room, too.

Low backdrag ratchets were the first gamechanger for me in turning to love using ratchets on bicycles. Then came the quick spinner (aka thumb spinner). Quick spinners are predominately an item from the Japanese tool world and aid in making a ratchet a one-handed tool. It’s an enlarged grip that sits proud of the ratchet head that you use to quickly spin a thread down through its low resistance portion (where backdrag is an issue and where typically a second hand may be needed). I’m not overstating things in saying that I’d use ratchets a whole lot less if it weren’t for the quick spinner.

One obvious complaint to ratchets is that it’s common to need to redo an adjustment or back-out a bolt that engaged in the wrong way (cross-threaded). Here, the ability to quickly and easily switch the direction of the ratchet with the same hand holding the tool is a must for me. It’s largely for this reason that I no longer reach for a few of the popular spinner-type ratchets that allow the head to pivot and the tool to be used as a screwdriver – those place the direction switch a little more awkwardly for me.

Ok, this is where things get expensive. Only a small few meet my requirements of having a well-placed light direction switch, low backdrag, a compact-shaped head, and a comfortable handle. I’ve been looking, but I’m yet to find a budget version that ticks all these boxes.

My go-to 1/4″ square drive ratchets are the gorgeous Nepros NBR290 (or the NBR290L for the long handle), and the Snap-On THL72. Also worth consideration is the Ko-Ken Z-Series 72T 2725Z-160 (often decently priced), although its direction switch isn’t quite as solid-feeling and is in the opposite direction to my first two choices. And a special mention to the TRO Designs titanium ratchet, which I’ve come to love, but golly, it sure is an expensive way of turning a bolt!

While not an issue for me as I don’t often swap sockets on my ratchets, you may want to consider a ratchet with a quick release on the square drive anvil – this is a button that helps to release the socket. Of the above suggestions, the Nepros is the one to get if you want this feature, plus it achieves it while remaining competitively compact.

Regardless of the 1/4″ square drive ratchet in use, I use one of two quick spinners. The larger and more comfortable option is Nepros’ NBE28 Quick Spinner. It features a large rubber ring, but just be warned that this ring can slip if you’re asking too much of it. Smaller in size and little rougher on the fingers, the Ko-Koken Z-Series 2756Z is an all-metal option that’s also a tad cheaper.

For 1/4″ hex-type bit-ratchets, I’ve found that a huge number of options are closely comparable in design and manufacturer, with the big difference being seen in the handle shape and the logo. For example, the well-priced 72T ratchets offered by Presta Cycle function much the same as those from premium brands such as Wera and Facom. Today my tool wall has a few of Presta Cycles’ basic ratchet tools, somewhat permanently set up with bits ranging from 2.5-6 mm hex. These tools are only called into action where clearance and/or surrounding room is limited, while the larger square drive tools are what I use most.

Previously covered, there’s also a niche world of ultra-low-profile bit ratchets for access where space doesn’t allow other tools. The low-profile ratchet from BGS rules the roost here, although frankly, it’s not something I use often.

You can waste a lot of time in swapping bits or sockets, and the constant jumping between drive sizes when working on a bicycles creates real barriers in using ratchets efficiently. For me, the true realisation about how much I love using a good ratchet only came after I set up a few to cover the most common drive sizes.

Today, I have dedicated 1/4″ bit-ratchets spanning 2.5-5mm hex, and dedicated 1/4″ square drive ratchets spanning 4-6 mm hex, plus T25 and T30. Yes, it’s a lot, but even just having two ratchets with dedicated 4 and 5 mm hex bits can be an efficiency win and is where I suggest tool nerds begin.

For 1/4″ hex-style bits I tend not to stray too far from Wera and PB Swiss as my top choices. Both have proven to offer reliable fits and impressive durability. If you’re on a budget, then the more generic S2-steel bits from Presta Cycle represent good value for money, just be warned the fitment in a fastener isn’t quite as good.

These 1/4″ hex-style bits can easily be found in lengths ranging from 25 mm to 150 mm. There are use cases for all, but you’ll get the most use out of 25 and 50 mm bit lengths. I also like to keep 4 and 5 mm hex bits in a 100 mm (or 150 mm) length handy for doing stem bolts with an out-front computer mount in the way, some dropbar lever bolts, and even some bottle cage bolts.

Those investing in 1/4″ hex-style bits can also adapt them for use on a square drive ratchet via an adapter. Just about every tool company under the sun sells such a 1/4″ hex-bit to square drive adapter, but I’ve really come to like the premium Wera 784 1/4” with its quick release lock.

Then we get into the world of dedicated 1/4″ square-drive hex-bit and Torx sockets. I have too many thoughts on this topic to get into here, but I can comfortably recommend such sockets from Ko-Koken’s Z-Series range, GripEdge, Gedore, Hazet, and Snap-On (the price, ouch). Things get a little murkier in the fitment of bit-sockets from Nepros, Wera, and PB Swiss (now discontinued), although they’re still great options for most applications.

Stepping up in size and it’s common for a bicycle mechanic to choose between 3/8″ and 1/2″, but perhaps not invest in having tooling for both. These are tool sizes that are commonly used in automotive applications and a well-stocked hardware or automotive parts store will have plenty of options.

For the purpose of bicycles, this is the size of tool I keep for use on M8 or larger fasteners, such as those found in crankset bolts, cassette lockrings, disc brake rotor lockrings, threaded bottom brackets, pedals, and similar.

While I’m ultra fussy about my 1/4″ ratchets, I’m far more relaxed about my choices in this larger range. These larger use cases are all applications where clearance is rarely an issue and so you’re not limited to picking a compact-sized tool; rather, you should pick a drivesize that matches that of your preferred cycling-specific sockets. Equally, and speaking specifically of bicycles, having low backdrag in these drive sizes is less critical because it’s common for larger fastener sizes to carry more resistance, and it’s easy to use two hands where they’re commonly found.

Most bottom bracket and cassette sockets from Park Tool, Pedro’s, Abbey Bike Tools, Wheels Manufacturing, Cyclus, Wolf Tooth, and others have been trending toward the 3/8″ size. Meanwhile, most sockets from Unior, Shimano, SuperB, IceToolz, and others feature a 1/2″ drive. Adaptors do exist to convert smaller drivesizes into bigger ones, and visa-versa. While they can work in a pinch, my general advice is to be cautious using adaptors as many will increase your risk of applying unwanted angular force to a fastener which can encourage cam-off.

As I’ve covered before I’m a big fan of making wrenching lighter work by increasing the tool leverage available. With 3/8″ my preferred larger size, my well-loved Snap On FHLP80 ratchet sits at a long 330 mm length. This extra length makes undoing things a breeze, just be warned that it’s overkill for most tightening applications and care is needed to not apply too much torque.

That Snap On ratchet is wonderful to use, but I’ve had happy experiences with many better-value options. The likes of Gear Wrench and Harbor Freight’s premium Icon brand (a big discount tool chain store in the USA) both offer close copies worth considering. The list of other options is near endless (literally hundreds of brands), just pay attention to picking something with enough leverage.

Alternatively, you can pick up a more common length of 3/8″ or 1/2″ ratchet, and then also buy a low-cost breaker bar for those moments when you’re undoing stuck things. Neither need to be expensive (although they sure can be if you wish).

There’s a funny world of collecting ratchets and I worry I’m increasingly a part of it. After all, it’s a mechanical object that can be both useful and a noisy fidget spinner. What more could you want?

Jokes aside, it’s no secret that I’m heavily invested in nice ratchets. It’s also worth reiterating that it’s largely an all-or-nothing tool selection for me, and I would quickly return to simpler forms of hex keys if it meant having to compromise on a ratchet with a high backdrag or needing to continuously switch sockets to match differing fastener sizes. Maybe I’m a tool snob, or perhaps I’m just warning you before the addiction sets in – I’ll leave that for you to decide.

Last week, I wrapped up a fairly long-term review of the Remco Bike Lift repair stand. It proved to be a lifting experience. It is worth checking out if you currently own/use a Park Tool PRS-3 stand or are in the market for something of that level.

Until next time, happy wrenching!

Please note that the store links provided are NOT affiliate links – we get nothing for you clicking and buying from these outlets. Rather the links are pointed to places I trust to buy from and are provided to help with your research.

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